Guzzi V7 Front Fork: Step 1 – Removal

Several professional mechanics with Guzzi experience advised against disassembling the V7 front fork without having it done before. I, being an ignoramus, did it anyway. My personal recommendation – after having it done – is: Just take your time (get the special tool in case of an overhaul) and go for it. It´s not that hard…

You need to jack up the bike on the main stand and remove the front wheel. A small screw on the bottom of the fork allows you to drain the fork oil. It might well be that the oil is aged and thick as honey. So take a small screwdriver, poke it into the drain hole and help the oil getting out. I even took a ratchet strap, compressing the fork, forcing the oil through the drain hole. Turned out that an oil change was more than necessary.

Now, all it needs to loosen the fork itself is to untighten the lower fork clamp bolts and the fork plugs on top of the triple tree. Sounds easy, but can be challenging: The lower bolts are simple to remove, but the fork plugs are hidden under the cockpit. So you have to get rid of it first. I personally removed the cockpit completely, because it gives you more room to work. But you can also keep it connected to the electronics. More on that later…

The fork plugs are 36 mm large, so get yourself a proper spanner. Luckily, my Dad had one in his garage and I could unscrew them. There is a small rubber seal ring in the plug that you should remove with care. Now, screw the plugs back into position, but leave a gap of 2 to 3 threads between plug top and triple tree. Use a matching socket (mine was 27 mm I guess) that is put over the rubber cockpit mount and aligns with the plug surface completely.

Time for the biggest hammer available! The idea is to beat the socket really hard to push the fork out of the upper triple tree (using the open threads of the plug as limited space to move). The fork tops are cone-shaped and simply pressed into position. Don´t be afraid of hitting the plug/socket really hard. The 90% engaged threads are very strong; they can cope with the brute force you apply to them.

However, my fork was veeeeery persistent: It needed more than one week of soaking in WD40 plus torch application to heat the triple tree up. Finally, several massive hammer hits and it was loose.

By the way: This is where a complete removal of the cockpit makes sense, since you do not need to worry about burning cables or hitting the alloy cockpit casing with the hammer by accident…

You can now pull each fork element out of position and work on the inner parts in order to renew tired hardware – something very likely (the second step)…

PS: Again, Gregory Bender has a helpful tutorial on his website, too.

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